[轉貼][翻譯][知識] 購買 原色牛仔褲/原色丹寧褲 Dry Jeans /Raw Denim 的基本知識101
- 英文原文出處： 國外知名Raw Denim推廣網站 Heddles The Essential Raw Denim Breakdown – Our 100th Article
- 中文翻譯出處： http://aa10504.blogspot.tw/?m=1
標題: [介紹] 原色丹寧的要點剖析 (翻譯自國外網站)
時間: Thu Feb 11 17:56:24 2016
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| 圖片來源：http://www.heddels.com/2011/09/the-essential-raw-denim-breakdown-our-100th-article/ |
The Essential Raw Denim Breakdown – Our 100th Article
原色丹寧的要點剖析－我們的第一百篇文章
SEP 12, 2011 |101 PRIMERS |by Nick CoeDenim jeans could be the most popular item of clothing on the planet. Chances are you already own (at least) one pair of them and you’ve probably also heard about the cultural phenomenon that is Raw Denim.
牛仔褲可以說是地球上最受歡迎的單品了。
If you only know whispers of the discomfort associated with raw denim, thesupposed high cost, or even about people putting their jeans in the freezer,then this post is for you. We’re here to explain exactly what raw denim is,some basic raw denim terminology (selvedge, fades, etc.), and how you to carefor it.
如果你只聽過原色牛仔褲不太舒服、很貴、
After reading this post, you should understand what the hype is all about andbe able to make an informed raw denim purchase.
在讀過這篇文章之後，你就會明白所有的噱頭，
What Is Raw Denim?什麼是原色丹寧？
Selvedge raw denim fabric.
布邊原色丹寧布料
Raw denim (aka dry denim) is simply denim fabric that remains unwashed, untreated, and virtually untouched from when it rolls off the loom to when it is sold to you. It’s denim in its purest form.
原色丹寧是一種從被紡織機織出來，到賣到你手上的過程中，保持著沒被洗過、沒被處理過、也沒被改變過，最單純的丹寧布料。它是丹寧布料最純淨的形式。
Raw denim usually has a crispy and stiff feel and easily leaves traces of its indigo dye behind when it rubs against another surface–even your hands (this phenomenon is called crocking). Be careful what you rub up against when wearing a new pair of raw denim jeans, you might leave a bit of blue behind.
原色丹寧通常有一種又脆又硬的質感，而且當它和其他表面摩擦時容易留下它的indigo色痕跡，連你的手也不例外（這種現象又稱摩擦脫色）。當你穿著新的原色牛仔褲時，小心你摩擦到的東西，你可能會在離開的時候留下一抹藍。
The Benefits of Raw Denim
原色丹寧的優點
So why go through all this hassle just for a new pair of jeans? One of the biggest benefits of raw denim, and the indigo loss, is that they develop and age based on what you do in them and to them. Every mile you walk, every scrape on the concrete, every item you keep regularly in your pocket leaves its mark. The dark indigo dye slowly begins to chip away revealing the light electric blue and eventually the white cotton core of the denim yarns the more you wear them. What’s left is a wholly unique garment that was formed and faded to you and you alone.
所以為什麼要為了僅僅一件新牛仔褲搞的這麼麻煩呢？因為原色丹寧和indigo染劑脫色最大的優點之一，就是這個掉色的特性，它會隨著你穿著它時做的事，和你對它做的一舉一動，產生改變和舊化。每一哩路、每一道刮痕、每一個放在口袋裡的日常用品，都會留下印記。你愈常去穿它們，深色的indigo藍就會開始慢慢蠶食，轉變為明亮的閃電藍，最終露出丹寧紗線的白色棉芯。最後留下的就是一件以你為藍圖去色落的獨特服裝。
Take a look at this pair of Pure Blue Japan jeans below. The pair on the left is brand new, and the pair on the right have been worn for just over a year. If you want to see more examples of faded raw denim, check out our Fades section.
來看一下這件Pure Blue Japan 牛仔褲。左邊那件是全新的，而右邊那件被穿了僅僅一年。如果你想看更多原色牛仔褲色落的例子，可以看看我們的色落章節。
Other benefits of raw denim include:
其他原色丹寧的優點包含：
- Greater Durability – Since the fabric has not been artificially stonewashed, lasered, and sandblasted, you get the full life of the fabric involved, hence why many vintage garments have lasted so long.
- 更強的耐久性－
因為布料還沒有經過人工石洗、雷射和噴砂，你可以享受這個布料的一生， 這就是為什麼很多古著服裝可以保存這麼久的原因。
因為布料還沒有經過人工石洗、雷射和噴砂，你可以享受這個布料的一生， 這就是為什麼很多古著服裝可以保存這麼久的原因。
- More Eco and Labor Friendly – It takes an awful lot of water to grow enough cotton for a pair of jeans, but washing and distressing them takes even more, an average of 42 liters per jean. By buying raw, none of that water needs to go to waste. It also doesn’t expose workers to the harmful chemicals often used to distress and wash denim.
- 對環境和勞工更友善－要灌溉出足夠做一條牛仔褲的棉花量，需要花費很多的水，而去刷色它要花更多水，平均每一件牛仔褲要花42公升的水。買原色牛仔褲，就不需要浪費這麼多的水。而且也不會使工人暴露在加工刷色牛仔褲時使用的有害化學物質裡。
- Less Clutter – Many raw denim fans will wear the same pair of jeans everyday for months or years at a time. This could very well be your only pair of pants!
- 減少麻煩－
很多原色丹寧的粉絲會每天穿同一件牛仔褲好幾個月，甚至好幾年。它可能是你唯一的一條褲子！
很多原色丹寧的粉絲會每天穿同一件牛仔褲好幾個月，甚至好幾年。它可能是你唯一的一條褲子！
- Greater Value – Although the cost of entry is often high, the greater durability often leads to many more wears per pair.
- 更有價值－
雖然購入的單價常常很高，但更強的耐久度也使得每一條原色牛仔褲可以抵過更多件其他種褲子。
雖然購入的單價常常很高，但更強的耐久度也使得每一條原色牛仔褲可以抵過更多件其他種褲子。
The History of Raw Denim原色丹寧的歷史
A pair of Levi’s 501 jeans from the late 1880s.
一條1880年代晚期的Levi’s 501
While the vast majority of denim jeans sold today are distressed and washed before you buy them, nearly all denim was sold raw and crispy up until the 1970s. Denim was primarily a workwear fabric–hence the term “blue collar”. Denim was sturdy and tough, but still relatively soft, flexible, and comfortable once it was broken in.
雖然現在販賣的主流牛仔褲是水洗刷色牛仔褲，但直到1970年代前幾乎所有的丹寧都是以原色的形式販賣。丹寧曾經是工人服飾的主要布料，因此有了“藍領”這個詞。丹寧非常的堅固，但一旦被穿過後又會變得相對柔軟、彈性和舒適。
The word denim comes from the original name of the fabric “serge de Nimes”, serge meaning sturdy fabric and de Nimes meaning of the town of Nimes, France. There is some contention over whether denim was actually developed in Nimes, but everyone agrees that there is one event that solidified denim jeans as we know and love them today.
丹寧這個詞是源自於布料最原始的名字“serge de Nimes”， “serge”意思是扎實強壯的布料，“de Nimes”是一個法國的城鎮。雖然丹寧是不是真源自於Nimes這個小鎮還有爭議，但所有人都同意一個事實，我們熟悉也喜愛堅固的丹寧牛仔褲。
Jacob Davis (left) and Levi Strauss (right)
雅各布．戴維斯（左）和李維斯（右）
In the early 1870s, a Latvian immigrant tailor named Jacob Davis was producing clothing for miners in Reno, Nevada. Davis had developed a new way to secure the stress points on pants–copper rivets. Miners were thrilled with the increased durability and Davis tried to capitalize on the discovery by patenting his invention but had failed several times at the patent office.
在1870年代，一位名叫雅各布．戴維斯的拉脫維亞移民裁縫師在內華達的里諾為礦工生產衣服。戴維斯研發了一種新的方法去強化褲子的應力集中點－銅鉚釘。礦工們因為褲子耐久度提升而感到開心，戴維斯則嘗試利用申請發明專利的方式，去資本化他的事業，但一直止步在專利辦公室而失敗。
Davis reached out to his fabric supplier in San Francisco, Levi Strauss, a Bavarian dry goods merchant, about going into business together. Strauss and Davis received the patent in 1873 and soon began making the riveted denim jeans “waist overalls” that would define the how we think of jeans today.
戴維斯聯繫了他在舊金山的布料供應商李維斯－一個巴伐利亞裁縫工具供應商，討論是否一起做這筆生意。李維斯和戴維斯在1873年成功通過專利，並且開始生產鉚釘接合的牛仔褲“齊腰工裝褲”，就是這款褲子，定義了我們今日所熟知的牛仔褲。
Denim jeans were about as far away from the fashion world as possible at this point–it was pure utilitarian function. If anyone cared to look at the brand or the make of their denim, it was purely to see which one would hold up better under abuse. This would be denim’s identity through the earlytwentieth century.
牛仔褲在此時可能離時尚世界非常的遙遠，它是純功能性的。當時如果有任何人在乎他們牛仔褲的品牌或是做工，都是在找哪一種牛仔褲比較耐操。這是二十世紀早期對丹寧的定位。
Western star Tom Mix wearing jeans in “The Untamed” (1920)
西部明星湯姆米克斯在電影“The Untamed” (1920) 穿著牛仔褲
It wasn’t until the 1920s that denim’s reach began to expand beyond workwear. Denim jeans became the de facto cowboy uniform in revisionist Hollywood western films and children all over the country wanted a pair so they could dress up like their on screen idols. At this point, denim was still largely a costume to most Americans, but it did serve to normalize denim to the middle class.
一直到1920年代，丹寧穿著才開始擴展到工裝之外的領域。丹寧褲開始變成好萊屋西部電影裡牛仔的制服，全國的小孩都想要一條丹寧褲，這樣他們才可以打扮得像電影偶像一樣。在此時，丹寧大多是美國的平民服飾，不過這樣的風氣確實有影響到一些中產階級。
During WWII, many Americans put on denim for the first time as they went to work in factories to produce for the US war effort. Once the war ended, however, many soldiers and workers refused to take their jeans off. This gave denim a countercultural and anti-social bent, wearing jeans in polite company in the 1950s was considered transgressive at best and immoral at worst. This sentiment resonated well with suburban teenagers, who identified with the anti-authoritarian and denim clad characters in movies like Rebel Without a Cause and The Wild One.
在二戰期間，很多去工廠工作、為美國戰事努力生產的美國人第一次穿上牛仔褲。但當戰爭結束後，有很多士兵和工人不願意改變穿牛仔褲的習慣。這給了牛仔褲一個非主流文化和反社會的概念，穿牛仔褲在1950年代的世俗禮制下，好一點被認為是踰矩，最差會被認為是不道德的。
James Dean wearing Lee Riders in the 1955 film “Rebel Without a Cause”
詹姆斯．狄恩在1955年的電影“Rebel Without a Cause”穿著Lee Riders
The breaking point, however, finally came with the Elvis Presley film Jailhouse Rock. The ensuing popularity of the King’s hi-gyrating antics was too much for mainstream Americans to deny, and over the next couple of decades, denim gradually became accepted as a casual clothing option.
然而轉捩點終於隨著埃爾維斯．普雷斯利的電影Jailhouse Rock來了。電影裡牛仔褲的形象，受歡迎的程度實在是太高了，以致於主流美國人無法拒絕，在接下來的數十年，丹寧逐漸被接受，成為休閒穿著的一種選擇。
Average Americans, however, weren’t used to the break in process nor the fades that could take months or years to get perfect. The most popular casual denim brands in the 1970s and 80s were those that stonewashed and distressed their jeans before the customers bought them and saved them the effort of breaking them in. So now everyone could put on a pair of jeans that felt like pajama pants right after they pulled off the price tag.
然而當時多數的美國人，並不習慣自己穿到破壞，或自己穿出經年累月的完美色落。1970至80年代最受歡迎的休閒牛仔品牌，都是賣一些已經被石洗、破壞過的牛仔褲，幫客人省掉一些想穿出破壞的努力。所以每個人都可以像穿睡褲一樣輕鬆的購買並穿上他們的牛仔褲。
Brooke Shields wearing broken in denim for her famous 1981 Calvin Klein ad.
波姬．希爾斯在1981年著名的CK廣告穿著破壞牛仔褲
During this period, Japanese denim enthusiasts became disillusioned with American denim manufacturers. They believed that Levi’s, Lee, and the other brands had lost their way, and a small group of Japanese companies began reproducing jeans in the same manner as the American brands from the 1940s, 50s, and 60s. They rewove their own selvedge denim, recast buttons and rivets, and even bought up the old sewing machines that used to make American workwear so they could produce their own new “vintage” jeans.
在這段時期，日本的丹寧愛好者開始對美國丹寧工廠感到幻滅。他們覺得Levi’s、Lee和其他品牌已經走偏了道路，於是一小群日本公司開始使用美國牛仔褲公司在1940至1960年代的生產方法，來生產牛仔褲。他們重新紡織自己的布邊丹寧布，重新鑄造鈕扣和鉚釘，甚至還收購了過去曾經紡織美國工裝的舊式縫紉機，這樣他們就可以生產屬於他們自己的新“復古”牛仔褲。
A pair of Japanese made jeans from Studio D’Artisan.
一件日製的Studio D’Artisan牛仔褲
These “reverse-engineered” jeans from brands like Studio D’Artisan, Evisu, and Denime began to expand beyond Japan in the late 1990s and soon inspired a new wave of American brands to recreate the jeans of the past with their own special touches and fabrics.
這些“逆向工程”的牛仔褲，如Studio D’Artisan、 Evisu和 Denime在1990年代開始拓展到日本之外，很快地就刺激了美國品牌，掀起一波用獨特、自創風格和布料，重新製造老時代牛仔褲的浪潮。
With these new brands like Raleigh, Left Field, and Tellason producing and selling domestically in the late 2000s, raw denim’s popularity in the United States grew rapidly. Today, there are dozens and dozens of small manufacturers making raw denim all over the world, enough to the point where sites like ours exist to document it all.
一些新的品牌像是Raleigh、 Left Field和 Tellason，開始於2000年代後期在美國國內生產和販售，原色丹寧在美國的受歡迎程度快速增長。今日，全世界有無數個小的原色丹寧製造商，若要標記它們全部的分布點，足夠去點出世界人口的分布了。
How Raw Denim is Made原色丹寧如何製造的
So how does that iconic and international fabric get to the point where it can be made into pants? We’ll leave out some of the details here, but in a nutshell, raw denim jeans are produced via these steps:
所以這些具指標性且國際化的布料是如何被製作成褲子的？我們會省略掉一些細節，但簡而言之，原色牛仔褲的製造是經過了以下這些步驟：
Sourcing取得原料
Assuming the denim is produced with 100% cotton, the first step is simply sourcing the cotton plants. Cotton can be sourced from many different countries, ranging from Australia to Zimbabwe; and there are a variety of breeds and strains that have different properties like luster, softness, and durability.
假設丹寧是100%純棉的，第一個步驟就是從棉花樹上獲得棉料。棉可以從許多不同的國家取得，分布的範圍從澳洲至辛巴威都有；而且還有很多不同的品種，不同品種各有不同的特性，像是光澤、柔軟度和耐用度。
How the cotton is harvested varies with location. There are those that pick the cotton by hand while some employ mechanical techniques. Steps taken afterward include cotton carding (i.e. cleaning), inspecting, combing, opening, and blending – essentially making the cotton clean and removing all impurities and chaff so it’s ready for the next stage.
不同的地區盛產不同品種的棉花。有一些是用手採收，有一些是用機器採收。採收之後的步驟包含梳理（如清洗）、檢查、分離和混紡－實際上就是去除雜質使棉花乾淨，這樣棉花才能進入下一個階段。
Spinning紡織
Now that the cotton has been sourced, cleaned, and packaged in nice long “slivers”, it’s time for it to be spun. The individual cotton fibers are combined and twisted to create the yarns that will eventually be woven to create the denim fabric.
現在棉花都已經被採收、清潔且整理成漂亮的“銀”絲線了，是紡織它的時候了。這些獨立的棉纖維會被結合、揉擰成紗線，最後會被編織成丹寧布料。
There are several types of spinning, including open-end, ring, and double ring spun (aka “ring-ring”). Though there are many more details included here, note that ring and double-ring spun denim is more desirable – since it is thicker, leads to stronger fade contrasts (it doesn’t absorb indigo dye as well as open-end spun denim), and has greater slubbiness (uneven threads).
紡紗方法有很多種，包含空氣紡、環錠紡和雙環錠紡。雖然在這裡有許多的學問，但我們只要知道環錠紡和雙環碇紡的丹寧布料是比較誘人的就好－因為它比較厚，可以產生比較強的色落對比（和空氣紡丹寧一樣不吸收indigo染劑），而且色落會有更棒的竹節感（因為不平坦的線程）
Warping & Dyeing整經和染色
The cotton moves on to the next stage, “warping”. Woven fabric consists of warp yarns (length-wise, indigo dyed) and weft yarns (cross-wise, left un-dyed and thus labelled “filling yarn”).
這些棉料接著進行下一個階段，“整經”。編織布料包含了經紗（縱向，染成indigo色）和緯紗（橫向，保持未染色，又稱“填充紗”）
Warp yarns are prepared by selecting the longer yarn from the ring-spun yarn and dyeing. There are three main methods of indigo dyeing – loop dyeing, slasher dyeing, and rope dyeing. We’ll explore those more in depth in the future, but know that rope dyeing is considered superior as it is more laborious, specialized, and results in better fades (due to only the yarn surfaces being dyed).
挑選好環錠紡紗並染色後，經紗就完成了。紗的indigo染色方法主要有三種－循環染、經軸染和繩染。我們未來會在這塊探討更深，但現在只要先知道繩染被認為是比較優良的就好，因為它更費力、特別，且色落的結果更佳（因為只有經紗的表面會被染色）
In general, the indigo-dyed warp yarns are interlaced with the natural colored, un-dyed weft yarns, and there are two types of looms – shuttle looms (remember when we mentioned those above?) and shuttle-less (aka air-jet or projectile) looms. While the former produces less than the latter, they are more rare, result in finished edges (hence, “self-edge”), and typically more coveted (though this is of course subjective).
通常來說，被染成indigo顏色的經紗會和顏色自然、沒經過染色的緯紗交錯編織在一起，編織的織布機有兩種類型－梭織機（還記得我們以前提過嗎？）和無梭織機（又名噴氣式織機和片梭織機）。前者的產出比後者少，他們更稀有，會在結束時收邊（因此有了“會自己收的邊緣”這個單字），且一般來說更讓人垂延三尺（這當然是看個人主觀）。
There are also a variety of weaving variations, including right-hand twill, broken twill, and left-hand twill; and the end-result is a sheet of denim fabric.
另外編織的變化也有很多種，包含右斜紋、破斜紋和左斜紋；而最後的成果，就是一片丹寧布料。
Finishing完成
The denim sheets are then rolled into drums and shipped off to the brand that ’s going to make it into jeans. Some denim brands complete their sewing and stitching via larger facilities, while others favor one-man operations (such as Ande Whall and Roy).
接著丹寧布會被滾成一綑並運送至品牌商，然後做成牛仔褲。有一些丹寧品牌會外包給大工廠去完成這些針線活，另一些則喜歡自己完成這項工作。
That’s it! Not once during the finishing process is the denim distressed or washed in any way. It is left in its most pure and rawest state, and will only deteriorate with the wearer’s personal use.
就是這樣！在完成的過程中沒有任何破壞或是洗色。它保持著最純粹、最生澀的狀態，它只會隨著穿著使用者的個人習慣產生變化。
Check out the video below for a more multimedia-rich, albeit rough, understanding of the denim manufacturing process.
來看看下面這支影片，雖然內容粗淺，但比起文字多了聲音及影像可以了解丹寧的製造過程。
Raw Denim Terms to Know了解原色丹寧用語
When you first hear a denimhead talking about raw denim it can sound like a foreign language (slubbiness, nep, 3×1 twill, etc.). You can get to those later, but there are a few terms that will help you understand enough to make your first informed purchase.
當你第一次聽到一個丹寧狂談到原色丹寧，可能就像聽到外國語言一樣（竹節感、霜絮感、三上一下斜紋）。你可以慢一點再了解那些，但現在這裡有幾個名詞你要先了解，這些名詞足夠幫助你完成你的第一次內行購物。
Selvedge布邊
The selvedge outseam on a pair of Japan Blue Jeans.
一件Japan Blue Jeans牛仔褲的外接合處布邊
The most common word that you’ve heard surrounding raw denim is probably Selvedge–this refers to those little colored lines that often run along the outseam of a pair of jeans. Simply put, selvedge denim has had the edge of the fabric “self-edged” by a shuttle loom as it was woven to keep it from unraveling. Just because it’s selvedge though doesn’t mean it’s raw or even that it’s denim — almost any fabric can be woven with a selvedge.
你最常聽到關於原色丹寧的詞應該是布邊－這是指那些小小的、色彩繽紛，經常沿著牛仔褲的外緣接合處延伸的線。簡單來說，用梭織機織出來的布邊丹寧會在布料的邊緣“自己收邊”，去防止布料瓦解。
Selvedge textiles for the most part faded away in the 1950’s when denim demand skyrocketed and manufacturers like Levi’s and Lee switched to the far-cheaper and faster projectile looms, but there has been a strong resurgence amongst raw denim fans in the past few years. A selvedge line doesn’t necessarily equate to better denim, but the mills producing the most interesting and highest quality fabrics are usually producing them on selvedge shuttle looms.
大部分的布邊紡織品在1950年代隨著丹寧需求的快速暴漲，和大型公司如Levi’s和Lee更換更便宜、更快速的片織機之後消失了，但在過去短短幾年，又在原色丹寧粉絲之間強勢回歸了。雖然有布邊並不一定就等於更好的牛仔褲，但工廠在生產最有意思、最高品質的布料時，往往是使用布邊梭織機來生產。
Sanforization防縮
Unsanforized shrink to fit denim before washing (left) and after (right).
無預縮，縮水至合身丹寧，還沒洗之前（左）和洗之後（右）
Another term you might have encountered is Sanforization. Almost every fabric, including denim) will shrink a certain amount the first time it gets wet. Most denim on the market (raw and otherwise) is sanforized, which is a steaming and heating process that pre-shrinks the fabric before it is cut and sewn into jeans.
另一個你可能會遇到的詞是防縮。幾乎所有的布料（包含丹寧）都會在第一次浸濕的時候縮水一點點。大多數的市售丹寧（原色或其他）都是防縮的，是一種透過蒸汽和加熱，讓面料在剪裁拼湊成牛仔褲之前先預縮的程序。
Unsanforized denim (often called “Shrink-to-Fit”) will shrink about 5-10% the first time it is washed. You have to be much more careful when sizing unsanforized denim and factor that it may shrink up to two inches in the waist.
無預縮丹寧（常常稱“縮至合身”）在第一次洗滌的時候會縮大約5-10%。在選擇無預縮丹寧的尺寸時必須更加小心，腰圍有可能會縮水兩吋。(編注：此種牛仔褲較適合進階原色褲玩家購買，因為尺寸要抓很準，不然一縮完你就穿不下了。)
Weight
磅數
Another focus of raw denim is the Weight of the fabric. The weight refers to how much a yard of the fabric weighs in ounces (oz.). Weights can range from the ultra-light at 5oz. all the way up to the monstrously heavy 32oz. A heavier fabric will be stiffer, tougher, and require more effort before they are comfortable. Most raw denim, however, will be somewhere around 12oz.-15oz. This weight can be worn year round and won’t be too much of a pain to break in.
另外一個原色丹寧的重點就是布料的磅數。磅數是指每一碼布料的重量，單位磅（oz）。磅數範圍可以從極輕磅的5盎司至怪物極重磅32盎司。重磅的布料更硬、更強，且要費很大的功夫才能讓它變得比較舒服。大部分的原色丹寧磅數落在12盎司至15盎司之間。這個區間內的磅數可以全年穿著且不會穿得太痛苦。
透過我們的字典了解更多丹寧術語。
Your First Raw Denim Purchase你的原色丹寧首次購物
Now that you know the appeal of raw denim and some of the basic language around it, how do you go about buying your first pair?
現在你知道原色丹寧的要點和一些基本術語了，那你要如何去買你的第一條原色牛仔褲呢？
Measurements
測量尺寸
Unless you live near a brick and mortar store (find out if you do with our Store Guide) you’re most likely going to be buying your jeans online. To make sure you buy jeans with the proper fit, you first need to know your measurements. There are six key measurements you’ll want to take into account:
除非你就住在實體店的旁邊（用我們的店址導覽看看你是否真的住在旁邊），你很可能要利用網路去購買牛仔褲。為了確保你可以買到合適的牛仔褲，你必須先知道你的尺寸。這裡有六個關鍵尺寸你務必要記起來。
1.Waist – Circumference of the jeans top block
腰圍：平量褲子褲頭上方長度
2.Rise – Length from the top of the inseam to the very top of the fly
褲襠長：從褲頭上方到前褲襠下方的長度
3.Thigh – Distance from the top of the inseam across to the outseam
大腿寬：平放褲子，測量褲管大腿處的寬度。
4.Knee – Distance from the inseam to the outseam halfway down the jean
膝蓋寬：平放褲子，測量褲子全長一半處，褲管膝蓋處的寬度。
5.Leg Opening – Distance from the inseam to the outseam at the hem of the jean
褲腳寬：褲管最下方的寬度。
6.Inseam – Length from the bottom of the crotch to the end of the leg
褲管內側長度： 也是一般買褲子的褲長規格基準。
You can find your ideal measurements by taking a measure tape to your best fitting pair of jeans. Pretty much every raw denim retailer has these numbers listed on their website, so once you know your measurements, you’ll have the confidence to buy any jean, anywhere.
你可以利用捲尺去量測你最合身的牛仔褲，去找到最適合你的尺寸。
幾乎所有的原色丹寧零售商都有在他們的網站上列出這些數字，所以當你一旦知道你的尺寸，你就可以充滿自信地去買任何地方的牛仔褲了。
幾乎所有的原色丹寧零售商都有在他們的網站上列出這些數字，所以當你一旦知道你的尺寸，你就可以充滿自信地去買任何地方的牛仔褲了。
Fits版型
Slim Straight (Left Field Greaser) and Slim Tapered (3sixteen ST-100x)
修身直筒（Left Field Greaser）和修身錐形（3sixteen ST-100x）
Like most everything you wear, fit is especially critical. Straight Leg, Tapered, Slim Tapered, and Slim Straight are all common fit options; you’ll have to consider what works for you in terms of comfort and look. It’s not worth sacrificing your future children to stuff your tree-trunk thighs into a pair of heavyweight skinny raw denim that feels like Kevlar. Buy what works for you, and you (and your future generations) will be infinitely happier.
就像多數的單品一樣，合身是最要緊的。直筒、錐形、修身錐形和修身直筒全都是很常見的版型；你必須要考慮，就舒服和好看度而言，哪一種比較適合你。不值得為了把樹幹般的大腿塞進一件重磅、窄身，如凱夫拉纖維製的原色牛仔褲裡，而犧牲你未來的小孩。買適合你的，你（和你未來的子孫）就會感到無限的快樂。
Budget
預算
Momotaro Gold Label jeans are made from hand woven denim and retail for $2000.
用手工編織丹寧布製造的桃太郎金標牛仔褲，零售價2000美元。
Next, consider your budget. Raw and selvedge denim can range anywhere from $20 to $2000. The reason for this is the massive number of different fabrics, details, and manufacturing techniques available on the market.
下一步，考慮你的預算。原色和布邊單寧的價錢範圍很廣，可以從20美元至2000美元。為什麼價差這麼大的原因是，在市場上有非常多不同的面料、細節和製造技術可以供你選擇。
Keep in mind that just because a jean is more expensive does not necessarily mean it will be more durable, many of the manufacturers at the higher price points are simply offering something you can’t find anywhere else. For example, Roy Slaper of Roy Denim makes every single pair of jeans himself on rare vintage sewing machines, Sugar Cane & Co. in Japan uses a specialty denim that weaves in sugarcane fibers with the cotton for a unique feel and fade, Naked & Famous even makes a scratch and sniff denim that smells like raspberries.
切記，不是比較貴的牛仔褲就一定比較耐用，很多高價的牛仔褲是因為製造商提供了一些你無法在其他地方找到的特色。Roy Denim的每一件牛仔褲都是Roy Slaper自己使用稀有的復古縫紉機製作的。日本的Sugar Cane & Co. 是使用一種甘蔗纖維做成，且具有獨特質感和色落的丹寧布。Naked & Famous甚至做了一件聞起來像覆盆子的牛仔褲。
If you want to learn more about what separates the different price points of jeans, have a look at our article The Three Tiers of Raw Denim: Entry, Mid, and End Level.
如果你想要知道更多不同價位牛仔褲的分別，可以看看我們的原色褲的三個等級：入門、中階和最高階這篇文章。
If you’re just getting into raw denim, however, the best entry level jean we recommend is the Unbranded 201, it costs $82 and you can read all about why we picked it here. Also, be sure to have a look around our Scout tool, which searches through thousands of pairs of jeans to find the ideal match for your measurements, budget, and needs.
如果你才剛要入門原色牛仔褲，我們會推薦Unbranded 201作為你的最佳的入門級牛仔褲，價錢是82美元，你可以在這篇文章讀到為什麼我們要選這件。還有，可以看看我們的偵查工具網，它可以搜尋上千種的牛仔褲，設定你的尺寸、預算和需求，讓你找到你理想中的牛仔褲。
（編注：若是在台灣，我推薦Uniqlo的赤耳原色牛仔褲做為你的最佳入門原色牛仔褲，定價1490元台幣，並常有特價。）
（編注：若是在台灣，我推薦Uniqlo的赤耳原色牛仔褲做為你的最佳入門原色牛仔褲，定價1490元台幣，並常有特價。）
Caring for Raw Denim照顧原色丹寧
Now that you’ve got your raws, how do you care for them? Fades are such a central part of raw denim’s lore that they are celebrated unto themselves with fanatical devotion. The longer you go without the first wash, the greater the fades can theoretically be. However, the oft-repeated adage of wearing your raw denim for at least six months without washing can be a little overkill.
現在你已經買到你的原色丹寧了，你該如何照料它們呢？色落是原色丹寧神話的核心，能夠不下水穿越長的時間，理論上就能得到越漂亮的色落。然而，經常重複的穿你的原色丹寧長達六個月以上沒洗，味道可能會有一點點太殺了。
Some people put their jeans in the freezer to “kill” the funky odor-causing bacteria, but it’s not conclusive if that truly works. What we say is just wash your jeans when you feel like it. While no washes might make for more extreme fades, it also builds up dirt and grime in the fabric which only leads to more holes and blowouts. A safe balance is to wash your pair every month or two with an all-natural soap like Dr. Bronner’s or a detergent for dark colors like Woolite, but that’s by no means a hard-and-fast rule.
有些人把他們的牛仔褲放進冷凍庫去“殺死”產生霉臭味的細菌，但並沒有結論說這樣真的有效。我們的建議是，當你想洗的時候就去洗你的牛仔褲吧。雖然不洗可能可以創造出更極致的色落，但也同時累積了會使牛仔褲破更多洞的泥土和灰塵。一個比較保險的折衷辦法是，每一到兩個月就用Dr. Bronner’s純天然香皂或專門洗深色的Woolite洗滌劑來清洗，但這不是一個鐵則就是了。
The biggest takeaway from raw denim is that these pants grow to reflect who you are and what you do in them. So live your life, treat them like hell, and wash them when you think they need it. When you’re ready to wash, have a look at our complete washing guide to how to do it right.
原色丹寧最大的重點就是，這些褲子反映了你是誰、你做了什麼。所以活出自己，對待它們不用客氣，想洗它們的時候就洗。當你準備要洗它們的時候，看一下我們的完全清洗指引，就會知道怎麼洗才是對的。
The reason people are so crazy about raw jeans is because you essentially make a pair your own. As many denimheads say, “it’s a canvas that paints itself.” We hope that we’ve cleared up some of the mystery and myths surrounding raw denim so you can get to work on painting that first masterpiece.
人們會對原色丹寧感到瘋狂的原因就是，你真的親自設計了一條牛仔褲。就像許多丹寧迷說的“這是一張會自己彩繪的油畫”。希望我們這篇文章有破除掉一些關於原色丹寧的迷思，現在你們可以開始著手彩繪出你們的第一件創世巨作了。
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